Imagine feeding an infant who absolutely refuses to have any pureed or steamed food, cereals or mashed vegetables. The struggle during that phase was when the taste of milk alone was acceptable. In those it was the good old mashed bananas that came to the rescue. With just enough sugar and plenty of coaxing, the bawling stopped and the spitting stopped. Once the toothless smile changed then, a repeat phase started when the favourite word especially on seeing the plate was “No”!! Then again, the only favoured food was “nana” for that curved piece of yellow fruit. One had to scourge the books and net for various rcipes based on bananas. It was banana pancakes, mashed bananas, fritters and so on. Frankly wth the constant presence of banana, the rest of the family got sick and tired of it, but not the toddler.
The sudden recollection was due to the presence of a large bunch of bananas. The hand was a gift from our neighbours for a successful crop year. While we could just have a few of them, the old recipes were then referred for baking the holiday favourite banana bread.
Measuring out the all-purpose baking flour, one could often relate to the women of the Great Depression Era. With necessities running short and budgets tight; making perishables last was important. With the advent of baking soda and powder, the addition of ripe or overripe bananas to the flour gave the regular bread a different texture, taste and a welcome change from the usual. Over time the regular banana bread evolved to the a mix of the favourites of the diner like the banana raisin bread, banana nut bread, chocolate chip banana bread and the banana dates bread.
“Banana Tea Bread
1 3/4 c. sifted all-purpose flour, 2 teasp. baking powder, 1/4 teasp. baking soda, 1/2 teasp. salt, 1/3 c. shortening, 2/3 c. granulated sugar, 2 eggs, well-beaten, 1 c. mashed, ripe bananas (2-3 bananas)
Sift together flour, baking powder, soda, salt. Work shortening with a spoon until fluffy and creamy, then add sugar gradually while continuing to work with a spoon, until light. Add eggs and beat well with a spoon. Add flour mixture alternately with the bananas, a small amount at a time, beating smooth with a spoon, after each addition. Turn into a greased or oiled loaf pan about 9″ X 5″ X 3″. Bake in a moderate oven of 350 degrees F. for 1 hour 10 min., or until done. 1/2 c. chopped walnuts, or 1 c. chopped dates may be added.” – Good Housekeeping Cook Book, completely revised edition [Farrar & Rinehart:New York] 1942, 1944 (p. 482)
Though the popularity of the banana bread, muffins and cakes rose in the 20th century cookbooks; banana cakes and different variants were indigenous to the South East Asian cuisine. The Gao (steamed, flour based banana cakes) were a part of the Chinese meals, often served along with it or at tea. The Vietnamese Bánh chuối (sweet banana cake or bread pudding) was made with ripe bananas or plantains, coconut milk, sugar, white bread, shredded young coconut, condensed milk, butter, egg and vanilla extract. There were two main varieties, Bánh chuối nướng which was baked banana cake with a golden-brown, crisp exterior and the Bánh chuối hấp (“steamed banana cake”) with rice starch added. Another preparation of steam banana cakes are the Indonesian “Kue nagasari”, which is made using banana, mung bean flour or rice flour, coconut milk and sugar.
Keeping the choices and taste of the family in mind, it was an interesting venture at trying out the steamed version of banana cakes for a change. The outcome will be seen during the office lunch hour. While balking at the initial thought of letting the gift go to waste; the smell of the freshly baked banana bread as well as steamed cakes makes the hours in the kitchen worth their while.
“Banana Cake
Beat to a cream a quarter of a cup of butter, add a half cup of sugar and one egg; when very light, stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough; roll into a thin sheet and line a square, shallow baking pan. Peel five good, ripe bananas, and chop them very fine; put them over the crust in a pan, sprinkle over a half cup of sugar, the pulp of five tamarinds soaked in a quarter of a cup of warm water; squeeze over the juice of two Japanese oranges, put over a tablespoonful of butter cut into pieces, a saltspoonful of mace, and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Grate over the top two small crackers, bake in a moderate oven a half hour, and cut into narrow strips to serve.” – Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book, Sara Tyson Rorer [Arnold and Company:Phildadelphia] 1902 (p. 697)
Sugar And Spice... Among Other Things 