Posted in Daily, Food, Uncategorized

Of Parfait, Choice and Style

For any meal, the finale is marked by that delightful bit of sweetness. With the rising awareness of eating healthy and right, the right balance has to be struck at times between the temptation of the sugar craving to close the meal and to stay on the low healthy calorie counter too. Which is why “parfait” has evolved since it’s inception to the present day.

The oldest known recipe can be traced to 1894, of French origin where it had started off as a frozen dessert. While the French prefer to make the base from cream, egg, sugar and syrup creating a perfect custard-like puree, known as “the parfait”; whereas the American counterpart includes an artful layering of varied ingredients like granola, nuts, yogurt, liqueurs with a topping of fruits or whipped cream layered and served in a tall glass.

Of recent, with new trends and various experimentation, parfaits have been introduced without the cream and liqueurs. Instead they are made by simply layering the fresh fruits ranging from berries, cut peaches, strawberries with yogurt , granola or nuts; served as a healthy snack, breakfast option or a light meal, as a change from the regular. Which ever way it may be, the popularity of the parfait lies not only in it’s ease of preparation and the delectable indulgence but also in the appealing art it holds in itself.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Of Milk, Flour and Flavours

With the sweet tooth running pretty strong in the family genes, the question “what’s for dessert?” comes first, even before the table is laid. When the baking comes to a lull, the ever ready alternative comes as long as milk is plenty and available. From the Spanish Arroz Con Leche to the Muhalabieh of the Middle East or malabi (Israeli milk pudding), French Teurgoule, British Blancmange to the Indian Kheer or Persian Firni, there are countless variations and possibilities to the regular recipes of milk based puddings and desserts. Interestingly each dish in this vast list has their own history and legend behind them.

Milk. Rice flour ( of recent cornstarch). Sugar. Rosewater. Vanilla extract. Chopped nuts.

With legendary origins dating to Sassanid Persia (224-651), the milk based pudding Mhallabiyeh ( or Muhalabieh in Middle East, Israeli malabi) has been often made with the basic ingredients of rice, sugar, rice flour and milk. Although in the Middle Ages, muhallebi and blancmange (European counterpart) were made with shredded chicken.

As the legend goes, Muhallebi was first served by a Persian cook (late seventh century) to an Arab general, Al-Muhallab ibn Abi Sufra who had liked the dish and named it after him. Thereby this dish had entered the Arab cuisine. The initial recipes (10th century) were based on three versions of the basic dish: milk thickened with ground rice, milk with rice grains and chicken and an egg custard (without rice). Records from two 13th-century Arab cookbooks (one by al-Baghdadi, another from Andalusia) have recipes of a spiced pudding variation made with mutton instead of chicken. The Ottoman Empire has written records of two versions of muhallebi: a version with shredded chicken (tavuk gögsü) served during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror and a later recipe(1530) for a meatless version flavored with rose water. Later records give a recipe for muhallebi named as “Ramazan cakes” (19th century English cookbook). This recipe records of boiling milk together with rice flour and sugar until the mixture reduces followed by which the pudding is then flavored with rose or jasmine extract and allowed to cool before it is sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Modern variations of the initial recipe has been seen in the substitution of the rice flour (or addition at times) by cornstarch or wheat starch depending on the thickness, consistency and creaminess required. The Israeli “malabi” is made from cream and milk cooked with corn starch and rose syrup, the latter being used primarily for flavouring. It is often topped with chopped pistachios, desiccated coconut, almond slivers as well as orange water flavorings. On the other hand, the Cyprian mahalebi (or mahalepi or muhallebi) is devoid of milk. Instead it is made from water, sugar, nisete flour ( or cornstarch/corn flour), rose water and when it is set, they add. When the muhallebi is set the Cypriots add rose called triantafyllo (rose squash /cordia/syrup) on top of it.

While making Muhallebi at home, various alternatives and add-ons to the classical recipe may be tried. More elaborate concoctions can be tried, like layering this pudding on a biscuit base for a chewy feel to balance out the sweet milky taste; or modify it as a drink based dessert. No matter what, with the sweetness of the milk (cream added as per preference) to balance out the taste of cereal and additional flavourings with various toppings and garnishes, this dessert will be a well loved addition to the list of no bake desserts.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Splash of White

“I had some dreams, they were clouds in my coffee.” Carly Simon

For coffee connoisseurs around the globe, knowing the exact coffee-lingo is a must. Following the dictum of “When in Rome, do as the Romans do”, coffee lingo too changes as per place. Be it the espresso macchiato or the Caffè macchiato (not the latte macchiato) or the “café pingado”, all routes lead to another coffee concoction.

Known as espresso macchiato or Caffè macchiato (latter in Italy), it is essentially an espresso coffee drink with a small amount of milk (usually foamed) in it. The origin of this drink could be possibly attributed to the baristas which needed to show their serving waiters the difference between an espresso and the effect to it after a little bit of milk was added to it. The purpose was to just mark or stain the espresso. In Italian, macchiato means “stained” or “spotted” so the literal translation of caffè macchiato is “stained” or “marked coffee.” Moving over to the Portuguese version of this drink where it is renamed as “café pingado” literally translated to coffee with a drop. Although in Mexico, it is called a cortada, the latter terminology mayn’t be used in other countries as it meant for another coffee beverage with a higher amount of milk in it as compared to the macchinato.

“Black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love.” Charles Maurice de Talleyrand

As compared with any other similar coffee drink with milk, the caffè macchiato has the highest ratio of espresso to milk. The key to a perfect macchiato lies in getting the quantities right. As the name suggests, this coffee should contain just a splash of milk, which is added to pure espresso. The traditional macchiato is about one and a quarter ounce that is one ounce of espresso with a small amount (around one to two teaspoons) of milk, the latter is mostly steamed with slight foam so there is a visible mark. The purpose of the milk is to enhance in moderation (rather than being overwhelming), preserving the bold flavour and the taste of the coffee while adding a delicate touch of sweetness (as an alternative to added sugar).

For coffee cognoscente attention to details are required for the preferred coffee. While an average cappuccino has an 1:2 ratio and latte has a 1:3 ratio of espresso to milk, the average size espresso macchiato has a 2:1 ratio. To prepare the drink at home or in a semi-professional barista set-up, a single shot of espresso is poured into a demitasse (a small espresso cup) and then a splash of hot milk is added. Few recipes suggest adding 1–2 teaspoons (approx. 5 to 10 grams) of milk heated to 140 to 150°F (60–66°C). Heating the milk so, would introduce steam into the milk causing the fats to expand and develop a layer of little bubbles like a “micro-foam.” This is most often done using an espresso machine and a steam wand.

For a change, as the autumn showers run by and the cold wintry winds approaching soon, the scent and flavours of coffee maybe enjoyed the “macchiato” way. As any javaphile would agree, those little beans can liven up the day at any hour or moment of time.

“To espresso or to latte, that is the question…whether ’tis tastier on the palate to choose white mocha over plain…or to take a cup to go. Or a mug to stay, or extra cream, or have nothing, and by opposing the endless choice, end one’s heartache.” Jasper Fforde

   

      

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

As Basic as Bread

One of the after-effects of mixing flour, water and yeast which was later baked had resulted in the preparation of the one of the most staple foods had across different countries of the globe. With the dawn of civilization and agriculture leavened (or in certain areas the unleavened form) bread has become a part of the local cuisine and culture, such that existence without it for a couple of days would be quite unthinkable.

Etymology tracing the roots, the word “bread” originally meant “broken piece” or “morsel”, as evidenced by the appearance of West Frisian brea, Dutch brood, German Brot, Swedish bröd, Norwegian and Danish brød; all a part of the Gemanic languages which had transferred few of it’s roots to the Middle and Modern English. Although “hlaf” was the old English name for bread (hlaifs in Gothic: modern English loaf).

One of the earliest prepared foods, archaeological evidence shows starch residue on rocks. Possibly roots of certain plants (possibly cattails and ferns)were pounded on these rocks for their starch extract, then placed over a fire and cooked, which would be the earliest primitive form of flatbread. With the rise of agriculture ( Neolithic Age) and cultivation of certain plants, cereal may have then been the mainstay of bread making.

“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” James Beard

Leavening of the bread in the early years may have happened through multiple sources. One possibility would be that leaving the uncooked dough exposed to air for sometime would result in the airborne yeast spores falling in. Another fact is that many yeast spores are naturally found on the surface of cereal grains, so if any dough is left to rest, it may leaven naturally. Records of Pliny the Elder report that the Gauls and Iberians used barm (the foam skimmed from beer) to produce “a lighter kind of bread than other peoples” such as barm cake. Other parts of the ancient world used their knowledge of wine to find a source of yeast, either by making a paste composed of grape juice and flour that was allowed to begin fermenting or wheat bran steeped in wine. Another common source of leavening was to retain a piece of dough from the previous day to use as a form of sourdough starter.

Modern methods of bread making was initiated by the Chorleywood bread process (1961) which uses the intense mechanical working of dough to dramatically reduce the fermentation period and the time taken to produce a loaf. Mostle used on a factory scale, this resulted in bread being easily available on a large scale and in the commercial market.

Alternative to the regular wheat bread, bread may be made from other wheat species like spelt, emmer, einkorn and kamut or made from non-wheat cereals like rye, barley, corn, oats, sorghum, millet and rice have been used to make bread. Although only rye bread can be made exclusive of wheat, others may need a little of wheat flour for binding process. Although for the purpose of preparing gluten-free breads, ground flours from various alternatives like almonds, rice, sorghum, corn, legumes (like besan), tubers (cassava) maybe used. As these flours mayn’t hold their shape as they rise and hence may be dense without the aeration, additives such as corn starch, eggs, xanthan gum and the like are used to compensate for the lack of gluten.

From sliced bread to sourdough loaves, there are a variety of breads being made pertaining to each locality and region like the yeast based anadama bread, hoppers, Scottish bannock, cottage loaf, Austrian kifli, Spanish mollete or the Swiss Zopf to mention a few. There is nothing more satisfying than making own bread once in a while. From the regular bread to short bread, the choice of recipes and methods are plenty. Giving the sweet tooth a rest, it would be an interesting experience to give bread baking a try, may be adding a more individual, experimental and creative touch to it.

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight… [Breadmaking is] one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from some ancient ceremony. It leaves you filled with one of the world’s sweetest smells… there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of meditation in a music-throbbing chapel. that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread.” M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

The “Petit Four” Story

“It was the best first kiss in the history of first kisses. It was as sweet as sugar. And it was warm, as warm as pie. The whole world opened up and I fell inside. I don’t know where I was, but I didn’t care. I didn’t care because the only person who mattered was there with me.” Sarah Addison Allen (author of The Sugar Queen)

Craving for a snack between meals, especially during office hours wherein it is a situation between the need for the sugar versus the knowing that control is a must (mind vs. body), the deli across the road offers a relief during the short breaks. With the variety of mignardises of petit four on display, these cravings can be satisfied when their effect runs too hard.

Known more commonly as petit four than mignardises, the former word when literally translated from French means “small oven”. These small bite sized single piece confectionery or savoury appetizer arose in the 18th and 19th century French cuisine.

Before the gas ovens had been invented, those years saw the large brick ovens (more common Dutch design) being used. The latter used to take a long time to heat up (especially to the bread baking temperatures) as well as cool down. Taking advantage of the stored heat, bakers used these ovens to bake pastry during the cooling process which was known as baking à petit four (literally “at small oven”).

Walking into any French patisserie, these assorted small desserts are usually called mignardises; whereas the hard, buttery biscuits are called petits fours. Similar to the petit four is the classical Austrian confection of pastry known as Punschkrapfen or Punschkrapferl (punch cake), which has a legend of it’s own.

These petits fours come in three main varieties, as Petit Fours Glacé (“glazed”) predominantly served as iced or decorated tiny cakes topped with marzipan covered in fondant or icing. The second category includes savoury bite-sized appetizers usually served at cocktail parties or buffets known as Salé (“salted”). The third category are the Sec (“dry”) which encompasses dry cookies, dainty biscuits, baked meringues, macarons, sable beurre, palmiers, duchesses and puff pastries, all baked at low temperatures for a long time. Other categorizations also include the Petits fours frais which are any small pastries like sponge cakes like madeleine, financiers, creme filled pastries like eclairs or tartlets, all these must be eaten the same day they are made for the quality is lost if they sit longer. On the healthier front, there is the “Petits fours Deguises”, made of fresh or dried fruit dipped in a sweet coating such as chocolate or cooked sugar.

Homemade petit fours can be made on a more simple and creative way with plenty of icing sugar, fondant, candied bit and pieces as well as the good old chocolate to add to the flavours and sparkle it to a work of art. With this wide assortment of treats, petit fours are indeed a delightful to enjoy that little bit of sugar, the concentrated way or slightly less or simply be savoury for a change.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Of Kladdkaka and Chocolate

Butter. Eggs. Sugar. Cocoa or chopped dark chocolate. Vanilla sugar. Flour. Pinch of Salt.
Minimum Baking Time.

While prepping a sudden luncheon meet for old friends, the dessert dish had to be something different, for we three ladies were all dessert connoisseurs. Hunting down for quick cake recipes, had led to the Swedish Kladdkaka, a gooey choclate cake that requires the very basic ingredients and minimum preparatory as well as baking time. This venture had led to the revelation of interesting tidbits and details of this favoured Swedish delight.

Kladdkaka, literally translated as gooey or messy cake (more commonly known as “chocolate mud cake” is a dense sticky chocolate cake with a soft and gooey center, often served with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream and raspberries. Widely believed to be one of the best cakes for chocoholics, there are many variations to the standard recipe for this delight. One of the major reason for it’s gooey nature (quite different from brownies and other regular sugar cookies) is the absence of baking soda in this preparation. With just mild whisking, the absence of air bubble results in the stickiness.

While tracing the exact origin of this cake didn’t lead to any specific occasion or person, it is believed to have been inspired by the brownie or the French chocolate cake recipe; with its’ origin being at a time when baking soda wasn’t routinely available (probably around World War II). Another theory was that Kladdkaka came from Örebro where Gudrun Isaksson (1938) baked brownies from a recipe she received from the USA. As baking powder was difficult to get hold of then, the dough became liquid resulting in the chocolate mud cake. Alternatively it was believed that this cake came to Sweden via the editor-in-chief of the Veckojournalen (1968), Margareta Wickbom who had visited a cafe in Paris where she tasted chocolate cake and brought home the recipe. It was known as “Elake old man’s muffins” then, believed to be made first in muffin form.

Regardless of the roots, with the simplicity of the recipe, ingredients and quick baking time, it makes for a welcome change for the quick but elaborate dessert. Variations are there with coffee added to the regular flavour or making the cake on block chocolate to give a whitish texture to it, adding fruits or nuts as well as making the batter more lighter or luxurious or give it a flour-less twist. So for the kitchen experimenters or home chefs, dessertarian and chocoholics, here is another recipe and delight to add to the ever growing list.

“This cake is one of those cakes I take for granted somehow. I love it so much but I rarely bake it. Before I started baking like crazy, about 5 years ago, I used to bake two times a year, tops. Two times a year, that’s it. And when I did, it was always “kladdkaka” (roughly translated “sticky cake” or “gooey cake” but I’ll just call it Swedish chocolate cake). Why kladdkaka then? Well, first of all, it was the only recipe I knew how to make. Second, it’s probably the easiest thing you could possibly make, and it’s just so darn delicious. You simply have to make this one! And don’t forget to serve it with whipped cream (vanilla ice cream is ok as well)!”
Linda Lomelino, Call Me Cupcake

(Sources: http://kladdkakerecept.blogspot.com/, https://culturedarm.com/a-swedish-kladdkaka-recipe/)

Posted in Daily, Food, Photography Art, Stories Around the World

Little like the “Donut”

Deeply fried, made from flour dough, typically ring shaped with a hole or similar round shaped (without the hole), or filled with various toppings and flavourings, this sugar delight goes by the more popular name of “donut”. While donut may be considered more of an 18th century preparation with their origin more likely from the Dutch oliekoek, fried dough based confectionery has been there for quite some time in the various indigenous cuisines across the globe. The tradition of frying foods in edible oils have been evidenced to the era of Ancient Greece and Rome. As other cultures began to adapt their own methods over time, different variations came into the local cuisines, though the roots may trace back to common ground.

Made usually from flour (can include finely milled or regular variety) with a mix of water, eggs, milk, sugar, oil, shortening or leavening agents as well as flavourings added to the dough which is then shaped(or not) and deep fried. While doughnuts may be based on their shapes as rings, filled, balls, flattened spheres or twists; other variants include the cake type (like old fashioned doughnut) and the yeast-risen doughnuts. Exploring the indigenous variants to the modern “doughnuts” based on the indigenous cuisines, there a huge number of delicacies that fill the list with legends of their own.

“New mysteries. New day. Fresh doughnuts.” David Lynch

What happens when a baker accidentally drops a ball of dough into a pan of hot oil ? The resulting culinary experimentation would result in a light, spongy ring of dough fried in oil, when had in the Maghrebi cuisine, is known as “Sfenj” (translated as sponge). Also known as Khfaf (Algeria) or bambalouni (Tunisia), Sfenj is usually had for breakfast or tea, had plain or sprinkled with sugar or dipped to drizzled in honey or sweet syrup. Originating in the Al-Andalus era (8th to 10th century), the accidental drop of dough, had evolved to be an important part of the Andalusi cuisine, spreading over to the Banumarin dynasty (Morocco, 1270-1465) and then onto the France (13th century) where it had inspired beignets. Making homemade Sfenj, all depends on how long one wants the dough to rise and temperature of the oil while frying. Of recent, there have been recent variations to the regular sfenj, that is “Sfenj matifiyya” (sfenj pounded flat and fried a second time) and the “Sfenj matifiyya bil-baydh” (sfenj matifiyya with an egg added before refrying).

Moving across to the French Beignet (almost similar to the English fritter), these are basically a type of deep-fried pastry. Although beignets were more popular in the medieval French cuisine, the earliest similar forms may have been there in Ancient Rome. With the basic ingredients of flour, granulated sugar, evaporated milk, shortening agents and confectioner’s sugar; beignets can be made in various varieties depending on the pastry type used. While the French-style beignet is essentially deep fried choux pastry, beignets made with yeast pastry ( boules de Berlin) or those made with chestnut flour (Corsica, beignets de farine de châtaigne) with the latter being known as fritelli, are just few of the variants made. While making at home, many variations, add-ons or substitutes to the usual dough mix may be made, starting with the flour or adding of mashed bananas (plantains) or berries just to start off a few changes. Beignets may be served either as sweet desserts or breakfast food, the choice is own.

There are countless styles and variations to the various forms of “deep-fried dough” across the globe. While exploring and experimenting with the various cuisines, absorbing those recipes into the home kitchen and indigenous cuisine makes the fun part of cooking. Food is essential to life. Imbibing a litte bit of the food culture into the usual mix would not only excite the cooking bug or the palatal buds, but also start off a pleasant home and family tradition. After all, experiences are the what fills the treasure chests of life.

“Frosting was his favorite. He liked to eat doughnuts at every meal. Because it was healthier to eat six small meals a day than three large ones, he restricted himself: jellied for breakfast, glazed for brunch, cream-filled for lunch, frosting for linner, chocolate for dinner, and powdered sugar for 2 a.m. supermarket stakeout. Because linner coincided with the daily crime peak, he always ate his favorite variety to ease him. Frosting was his only choice now, and upsetting his routine was a quiet thrill.” Benson Bruno ( author of A Story That Talks about Talking Is Like Chatter to Chattering Teeth, and Every Set of Dentures Can Attest to the Fact That No..)