Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Gooey, Sweet and Special

One of the advantages of the cellular networks is that news travels fast. Work promotions, kindergarten winnings, new projects or ideas accepted and launches as well as new family additions are few of the positive news that spreads fast. Some surprises call for impromptu celebrations which essentially involves something sweet. While instant baked goods mayn’t be available at hand round the clock, there is something about marzipan that can do wonders for the most basic of desserts.

Primarily consisting of sugar or honey and almond meal, marzipan is a confection with a wide array of uses. While it is often made into chocolate covered (or plain) sweet treats or as imitations of fruits, vegetables, cars, toys and the like; it can also be used as glazing for icing cake, biscuits or shaped into small figurines atop cakes especially meant for personalizing celebrations. It can also be added as a baking ingredient to the traditional recipes ( like the stollen, banket, king cake).

Tracing the origins, marzipan was believed to have originated through two different, though converging routes. One was via the Northeast Mediterranean line, introduced to Eastern Europe through the Turks, while the other possible origin was the Iberian Peninsula line, predominantly from the Al-Andalus area of Spain. With it’s widespread popularity, marzipan has numerous variations. While in Germany sugar and almonds are ground into a paste, syrup can be used to sweeten the mixture (France) while Middle East marzipan may include a dash of rosewater. Almonds may be replaced by apricot or peach kernels, to make a similar product known as the “persipan”. Other alternatives include substitution with soy paste or almond essence.

Homemade marzipan comes ready with very basic ingredients of almond paste (or freshly made almond meal), egg whites and sugar. Besides getting creative with marzipan made edible animals, figurines or delectable icing and decorative ideas; chunks of marzipan when added to cookie dough or cake batter make for an interesting twist to the taste. Wit marzipan, something simple can be made into simply amazing with basic ingredients, whole lot of creativity and plenty of ideas.

“Madre Carmela’s favorite nuts were almonds. Not only did she like the way they tasted the best among all nuts, but she loved the flavor they imparted to Sicilian desserts from cakes to biscotti, and her favorite of all, Frutta di Martorana- the perfect fruit-shaped confections made from pasta reale, or marzipan, which required plenty of almonds. Who would have thought that the base for an elegant, regal dessert like marzipan came from such a simple ingredient as the almond?”
― Rosanna Chiofalo, Rosalia’s Bittersweet Pastry Shop

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Biscuits, Crumbs and Milk

With plenty of biscuits left over from the holiday baking safely enclosed in their tins, it was their crumbs which had to be called to an order. After all the holiday cakes and ice-cream, evening desserts had to be something light, easy on the sugar and simple to make. What would be an easier solution for all the crumbs than the good old “biscuit pudding”.

Interestingly biscuit pudding is something that has evolved over time. With the British cuisine evolving the pudding from dumplings, the former had to be either in the meals or dessert category. More steamed than bakes, they were the savoury ones like steak and kidney pudding, haggis, pease pudding and the dessert ones (steamed in a basin and for afters) like the Christmas pudding, sticky toffee pudding and so on. Though essentially centuries on, pudding is more of a dessert than savoury. Dessert puddings like bread and butter pudding, biscuit pudding or simply with fruit.

“The proof of the pudding is in the eating.” Miguel de Cervantes, Spanish author. (1547-1616) ‘Don Quixote de la Mancha’

One of the very basic biscuit pudding recipes that resulted in the first stained smock of preschooler was the Chocolate biscuit pudding. Though claimed to be a Sri-Lankan dessert pudding introduced by the British during the colonial era; it may have been in the kitchens of the west long before then. To make it requires layers of a prepared chocolate pudding or icing mixture alternated in a serving dish with layers of biscuits (plain ones preferred) dipped in warm milk. Served cold (not baking or steaming) with chopped nuts as garnish, cutting through would see five to seven layers of biscuit and chocolate. An easy dish to keep bored children busy on cold days.

The old-fashioned biscuit pudding, usually handed over in the set of family recipes, the basic ingredients would be vanilla, eggs, milk and plenty of leftover biscuits. This moist pudding is usually had cold, garnished with ground cinnamon, raisins, candied fruit and with maple syrup. With fond memories, it puts the cracked biscuits and their crumbs to good use.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

From Spaghetti-o-iei’s

The noon drive from work during the last week day entitles picking up the kids from school. Once they are in the car, the ride then on is interspersed with narratives ranging from the classes, to “mom did you know that she/he” to playground falls, teacher praises, peer comments and the like. Among the narratives was their home science classes wherein the primary classes as well as kindergarten were taught about basic stuff like hand-washing, making cookies, tending the garden and sorting the recyclables. With detailed descriptions of how spaghetti was made in class, the three of us had trooped into the ice-cream parlour for the weekend scoop. Imagine to my surprise when the “today’s special” held the title “spaghettieis”. On clarification, the waitress told me that we serve ice cream only and spaghettieies was just noodle ice-cream.

Spaghettieis (German pronunciation: [ʃpaˈɡɛtiˌaɪs]) is a German ice cream dish made to look like a plate of spaghetti.

Created by Dario Fontanella, “spaghettieis” was a dish of vanilla ice cream extruded through a modified Spätzle press or potato ricer, giving it the appearance of spaghetti( late 1960s, Mannheim, Germany). The entire ice-cream spaghetti is then placed over whipped cream and topped with strawberry sauce (to simulate tomato sauce) with coconut flakes, grated almonds, or white chocolate shavings added over it (similar to the Parmesan cheese). Fontanella had served this innovative creation to tearful children and had received the Bloomaulorden, a medal bestowed by the city of Mannheim (2014).

As this innovation makes it’s rounds in popular gelaterias, ice cream parlours as well as special events; various variations have been experimented with. Popular among these simulations include the different flavours of the “ice-cream shaped like spaghetti” with dark chocolate ice cream, nuts, sprinkles, icing sugar and the like. To be a “spaghettiei” dessert, the simulation has to be one of the varied spaghetti versions like Spaghetti Carbonara, Spaghetti Bolognese, Spaghetti cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) or the Spaghetti alle vongole appearance. With simple “mini-variations” a simple bowl of vanilla ice-cream can be turned into something decadent and delightfully elaborate but exquisite and simple.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Christmas, Candy and Canes

What is the best to keep a crowd of noisy children quiet ? The best option would be to give a bag of sweets, preferably mints or hard boiled candies for then there would be snatches of quiet.

On similar lines as per folklore, the choirmaster at Cologne Cathedral ( Cologne, Germany 1670) wished to quieten the noise made by the children during the long Living Crèche ceremony of Christmas Eve at church. He asked the local candy maker for some “sugar sticks” and add a crook to the top of each stick. While the latter would have probably been meant to be symbolic of the shepherds visiting Infant Christ as well as to justify the practice of giving candy to children during worship services. With the white colour of converted sticks, children were taught about Christian belief in the sinless life of Jesus.

Their popularity from Germany had spread to the rest of Europe, wherein these candy canes were handed out during plays reenacting the Nativity. Another legend connects candy canes to the anniversary of the death of St. Nicholas (343 A.D.) with the candy cane representing the crozier or bishop’s staff of St. Nicholas. Though other legends may run through various locals, the candy cane especially the classical red and white one is synonymous with Christmastide. Records also mention of August Imgard (Wooster, Ohio, 1847) decorating a small pine tree with paper ornaments and candy canes.

With the similarity to the polkagris, candy canes are a part of Christmas tradition which stays on till New Year. From the simple red and white ones to the more coloured and striped ones, with various flavours of peppermints to spicy or salty variants, candy canes keep the confectioners busy for the end of the year season. Intermixing the essence of candy cane into varied desserts, from cookies to truffles or cupcakes, experimentation with candy cane is an experience in itself. With the smells of candy canes and Christmas time, the golden yesteryear of childhood still stay fresh in the mind. For that is what happy memories are all about.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Cookies, Spices and Holidays

No Christmas or winter holidays would be complete without the tiny peppernuts, cookies baked and stored in tins, kept for the cold nights or after hours of carolling. Made with plenty of assistance, these holiday cookies come by many different names, varying from region to region, with their own legends behind them. These tiny spice cookies are quite popular as holiday treats, known as pepernoten (Dutch), pfeffernuesse or peppernuts (English) or pebernødder in Danish. While the exact origin maybe uncertain, traditional beliefs links these cookies to the Dutch feast of Sinterklaas, where children receive gifts from St. Nicholas. Since 1850, these cookies have been a part and parcel of the European yuletide celebrations.

Flour, brown sugar, sugar, cloves, cinnamon.

Unlike the name “peppernut”, these cookies don’t always contain nuts in its ingredients. The size of the cookie, roughly similar to nuts and can be eaten as a handful, which probably accounts for the name. The ease of making these pfeffernüsse has resulted in a varied range of recipes, with variations made in the used of the amounts of aromatic spices like cinnamon, cloves, mace, nutmeg, cardamom or anise as well as the sweeteners used, ranging from options of powdered sugar, brown sugar, molasses, honey or a fine dusting of icing sugar. To make the dough similar to the early century versions, leavening agents like potassium or ammonium carbonate are used to get the sticky and dense consistency.

Accounting for the regional variations pepernoots are similar Dutch cookie-like confectionery. Certain recipes are similar to the Pfeffernüsse although they look completely different when baked. Other recipes vary in the adding of cardamom, pepper, butter, vinegar, eggs, brown syrup to the usual holiday cookie ingredients of flour (wheat or rye), cinnamon and cloves. Light brown and square shaped, they are fairly chewy and harden gradually when exposed to the air.

“Best of all are the decorations the grandchildren have made ~ fat little stars and rather crooked Santas, shaped out of dough and baked in the oven.” Gladys Taber

In addition to the baking, the customs with these pepernoten (or pepernoots) stay on. From hiding handfuls of them through the room so that children can look for them or hiding pocketfuls of them while caroling or for ice skating breaks. In earlier days, new parents would place one or two carrots underneath the infant’s pillow so that Sinterklaas would then come and bless the child by showering the infant with “pepernoten”.

Modifying these recipes by choice, making them gluten-free or adding the favourite ingredients and toppings gives these holiday cookies a personal touch and flavour. In the midst of all, getting the ingredients kneaded with help of many tiny hands gives these holiday spice cookies a pleasant feel and memories full of warmth and laughter worth treasuring for life.

“Peacekeeper Christmas Spice Cookies 225g butter, softened 200g sugar 235ml molasses 1 egg 2 tbsp. sour cream 750g all-purpose flour 2 tbsp. baking powder 5g baking soda 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. ground ginger pinch salt 145g chopped walnuts 145g golden raisins 145g chopped dates In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar together. Add the molasses, egg and sour cream; mix well. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt; gradually add to creamed mixture. Stir in walnuts, raisins and dates. Chill for 2 hours or until easy to handle. On a floured surface, roll out dough finely. Cut with a 21/2-inch round cookie cutter. Place on greased baking sheets. Bake at 325°F for 12–15 minutes. Cool completely.”
Jenny Colgan (Christmas at the Cupcake Cafe)

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Chocolate for the Holidays

As the holiday season grows near and school is closed till the next year has set into it’s first week, the official holiday snacks and treats season has begun. Young or old, age has never been a bar for the holiday favourites. With the very basic ingredients of crushed cake or biscuit mix, cocoa, sugar (and a little of the rum for that extra holiday spice for the “adults only” time); can result in the favourite holiday treat of the “romkugle, trøffel or sputnik” or simply, the rum balls.

A truffle-like confectionery flavoured with chocolate and rum, these rum balls complete every holiday season. Often coated in chocolate sprinkles, desiccated coconut, icing sugar or cocoa, these cookie, cake or biscuit based treats can be made in a jiffy with no baking required. With the festive preparation in full swing, the less complicated it is, the more popular the recipe.

Making these chocolate balls is an event, for more than the different regional variations, many a time it is a family tradition passed down form one generation tot he next. The basic ingredient is the choclate and as for the rum, that may be replaced by similar rum flavouring or any flavoring of non-alcoholic variant. The basic step is to crush the cake (or biscuit) material, mix it with fat, cocoa, a moist binding ingredient like jam or condensed milk and optional ingredients like chopped nuts, raisins, sultanas, ground walnuts, white chocolate or even peanut butter. Once the mix holds together, it can be rolled into small balls and coated with flavouring of choice. Regional variations as well as names exist for these chocolate rum balls. From the Dansk Romkugl or Trøffel, Deutsch Rumkugel or the Polski Bajadera, each regional recipe has a subtle variation. The Hungarian kókuszgolyó are made with whole cherries placed inside the balls and then rolled in coconut flakes.

Going for a healthy twist from the regular, the Danish Havregrynskugle or the “Oatmeal Ball” may be another new holiday recipe to work on. Slightly smaller than a ping pong ball and made of oatmeal, sugar, cocoa, vanilla, butter with a small amount of coffee mixed to a compact mass, these balls are formed and then rolled in shredded coconut, nib sugar, sprinkles or toppings of choice. Similar to this confectionery is the Israeli Kadur Shokolad, where these chocolate balls are made with Petit Beurre crumbs.

Although these treats are holiday favourites, they are in no way confined to it. More than “just desserts”, they become a part of the family tradition as all hands, the tiny ones as well as the experienced hands join in for the holiday memories. As for alterations and combinations, chocolate for the year end would be loved in any form or any manner, liquid or solid, elaborate or simple; the year end sugar and choclate rush is the norm. As for gifts, there is nothing like a gift of choclate covered rum balls or cakes to bring the present year to a delightful and delicious end.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

From Muffin to Cruffin

“You don’t get tired of muffins. But you don’t find inspiration in them.” George Bernard Shaw, Man and Superman

While the busy mornings may start off with a muffin, a regular dose of the latter may inspire a change from the regular. What happens when the dough of the muffin is not poured but moulded in with something different? Voila, then is the cruffin, the brainchild of Kate Reid of Lune Croissanterie in Melbourne (2013). The “cruffin” is a hybrid of the croissant and the muffin. The pastry is made by proofing, shaping the laminated dough which is then baked in a muffin mould.

Although the entire procedure may sound quite simple, the delight of the cruffin lies in the filling and the garnishing. From the double choclate chip to caramel flavoured choclate or salty flavoured cream or rich strawberry jam, cruffins can be filled with a variety of creams, jams, crème pâtissières, curds and garnished with slivered almonds, pine nuts, glazed cherries, candied fruits, honey, maple syrup and the like. The entire cruffin, though a bit messy, is worth the long queue at the bakery. As far s homemade baking is concerned, cruffins are perfect for weekend or holiday baking and as far as fillings are concerned, let the favourites rule.

Extrapolating the idea over to the other morning regular, the donut; adding a little spice by making the donut dough a bit more pastry like, the cronut was born. The cronut, a croissant-doughnut pastry was invented by pastry chef Dominique Ansel of Dominique Ansel Bakery based in New York City(2013).

Made from croissant-like dough which was filled with flavored cream and fried in grape seed oil, this pastry doughnut had caught the flavour and imagination across the globe. So much so that these cronuts with flavoured cream were listed as one of the best “extremely fun” inventions by TIME Magazine (2013).

With the cronut and the cruffin, various combinations like cookie shots, zonuts have been seen. For the home chef, whether it be the standard regular recipe or not, the kitchen is a place to mix and match. As for dessert lovers, the change of taste, flavours and art are what makes the tasty moments of the day.