Pound the cheese until smooth and pasty. Mix the pounded cheese in a brass pan with honey and spring wheat flour. Heat the cheese cake “in one mass”, allow to cool and serve. ( Records from the oldest known Greek recipe, Athenaeus 230 A.D.)
One of the well loved desserts of “cheese cake” has its’ origins as early as the Greek civilizations of 6th century B.C. . Although it was believed that the first cheese cake may have been created on the Greek island of Samos, this mayn’t be exact. In fact, cheese and related products may have been there since the domestication of animals and use of milk by the primitive man. Th earliest evidence of cheese cake, was as per Greek records ( 5th century records of Greek physician Aegimus, Olympic records of 776 B.C. or Athenaeus writings of 230 A.D.) during sports and weddings (as the main wedding cake). Then the basic ingredients of flour, cheese, honey and wheat were taken in the right amounts and baked.
With the conquering of Greece by the Romans, the “cheesecake recipe” was modified to include crushed cheese and eggs. Either baked under a hot brick and served warm, or put into the pastry as a filling; the Roman cheesecake known as “libuma” was meant for special occasions. Cato the Elder’s De Agri Cultura accounts the earliest cheesecake recipes, which mentions three types; libum, savillum and placenta. The latter is almost like the modern cheesecake recipe with a crust that is separately prepared and baked.
“A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.” Anthelme Brillat
With the extension of Roman empire, later fall and rise of other civilization; cuisines and recipes were exchanged, experimented and evolved throughout Europe. From Great Britain to Eastern Europe, each region had their unique differences of ingredients, texture, method and presentation of cheesecake. The twelfth century had seen, a cheesecake recipe in the English cookbook, Forme of Curry (1390). Described as a flour based sweet food, various accounts also state cheesecake recipes as “cheese cut into very small pieces, soaked in milk for three hours; the mixture strained and eggs, butter and sugar being added (accounts of chef in employ of Henry VIII).”
Although the name “cheesecake” was used since the 15th century; the modern form of “cheesecake” had evolved around the 18th century. Then yeast was substituted with beaten eggs; thereby removing the overpowering yeast flavour and make it more “dessert-ish” and sweet. With immigration and migration to Americas, the recipes were further modified. The modern American cream cheese was developed in 1872 as an accidental discovery by William Lawrence (Chester, New York) as he tried to recreate the soft, French cheese Neufchâtel. Although he had made an “unripened cheese”, heavier and creamier than the regular; similar creations were made independently by other dairymen.
“New York means many different things to me. It certainly means cheesecake, more species of cheesecake than I ever knew existed: rum, orange, hazelnut, chocolate marble, Italian, Boston, and of course, New York.” David Frost
On a technical point, cheesecake today is more as a torte (based on number of eggs), tart or flan than being a “cake” as they have a separate crust, soft filling and the absence of flour in most recipes. In fact, modern cheesecake comes as two different types; of the baked cheesecake or cheesecakes made with uncooked cream-cheese on a crumbled-biscuit base.
With cheesecakes being broadly categorized as two basic types of baked or unbaked, each region or continent have their own versions or varieties. Like the most popular variety of South African made with whipped cream, cream cheese, gelatin filling, buttered digestive biscuit crust with Amarula liqueur, if not baked or the Asian style cheesecake of cornstarch and eggs (Japan) or cottage cheese, sugar and nuts ( Indian chhena poda, Odishan recipe) or the common unbaked Australian cheesecakes; one can modify the recipe for more fruit based or sweet (chocolate, vanilla or caramel) based flavouring.
“My favourite pudding is a toss-up between cheesecake – proper, New York cheesecake – and apple crumble and custard. Custard is very important, or dark chocolate mousse. Tea: probably Earl Grey, splash of milk.” Tom Hiddleston
For a more global cheesecake style, one can experiment and base recipes as per the French style (Neufchâtel cheese, gelatin), Italian-style (ricotta or mascarpone cheese, sugar, vanilla extract, small bits of candied fruit and sometimes barley flakes), Polish sernik, Russina vatrushka or like in the United Kingdom and Ireland.
The latter make their cheesecake typically with a base of crushed, buttered biscuits and often topped with a fruit compote. The usual filling is a mixture of cream cheese, sugar, cream and gelatin at times. Popular non fruit variations are banoffee, coffee, tea, chocolate, Irish cream, white chocolate, marshmallow flavors and even smoked salmon (Scotland). The New York style (heavy cream or sour cream based) and Chicago style (baked cream-cheese, fluffy with a shortbread based crust) cheesecakes are few of the popular American varieties.
The versatility, wide variety and variants, ease as well as simple ingredients of cheesecake are what makes them popular for quick occasions, simple desserts or more elaborate functions. To celebrate the National Cheesecake Day (July 30th), it would be fun to start a “cheesecake” tradition or recipe for family and friends. After all, cheese refines with age, in taste, flavours and texture. Intermixing recipes for new palatable combinations would be an interesting experimentation for the homemaker, artisan as well as the “chef’s eye”.
Sugar And Spice... Among Other Things 
