Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Of Milk, Flour and Flavours

With the sweet tooth running pretty strong in the family genes, the question “what’s for dessert?” comes first, even before the table is laid. When the baking comes to a lull, the ever ready alternative comes as long as milk is plenty and available. From the Spanish Arroz Con Leche to the Muhalabieh of the Middle East or malabi (Israeli milk pudding), French Teurgoule, British Blancmange to the Indian Kheer or Persian Firni, there are countless variations and possibilities to the regular recipes of milk based puddings and desserts. Interestingly each dish in this vast list has their own history and legend behind them.

Milk. Rice flour ( of recent cornstarch). Sugar. Rosewater. Vanilla extract. Chopped nuts.

With legendary origins dating to Sassanid Persia (224-651), the milk based pudding Mhallabiyeh ( or Muhalabieh in Middle East, Israeli malabi) has been often made with the basic ingredients of rice, sugar, rice flour and milk. Although in the Middle Ages, muhallebi and blancmange (European counterpart) were made with shredded chicken.

As the legend goes, Muhallebi was first served by a Persian cook (late seventh century) to an Arab general, Al-Muhallab ibn Abi Sufra who had liked the dish and named it after him. Thereby this dish had entered the Arab cuisine. The initial recipes (10th century) were based on three versions of the basic dish: milk thickened with ground rice, milk with rice grains and chicken and an egg custard (without rice). Records from two 13th-century Arab cookbooks (one by al-Baghdadi, another from Andalusia) have recipes of a spiced pudding variation made with mutton instead of chicken. The Ottoman Empire has written records of two versions of muhallebi: a version with shredded chicken (tavuk gögsü) served during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror and a later recipe(1530) for a meatless version flavored with rose water. Later records give a recipe for muhallebi named as “Ramazan cakes” (19th century English cookbook). This recipe records of boiling milk together with rice flour and sugar until the mixture reduces followed by which the pudding is then flavored with rose or jasmine extract and allowed to cool before it is sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Modern variations of the initial recipe has been seen in the substitution of the rice flour (or addition at times) by cornstarch or wheat starch depending on the thickness, consistency and creaminess required. The Israeli “malabi” is made from cream and milk cooked with corn starch and rose syrup, the latter being used primarily for flavouring. It is often topped with chopped pistachios, desiccated coconut, almond slivers as well as orange water flavorings. On the other hand, the Cyprian mahalebi (or mahalepi or muhallebi) is devoid of milk. Instead it is made from water, sugar, nisete flour ( or cornstarch/corn flour), rose water and when it is set, they add. When the muhallebi is set the Cypriots add rose called triantafyllo (rose squash /cordia/syrup) on top of it.

While making Muhallebi at home, various alternatives and add-ons to the classical recipe may be tried. More elaborate concoctions can be tried, like layering this pudding on a biscuit base for a chewy feel to balance out the sweet milky taste; or modify it as a drink based dessert. No matter what, with the sweetness of the milk (cream added as per preference) to balance out the taste of cereal and additional flavourings with various toppings and garnishes, this dessert will be a well loved addition to the list of no bake desserts.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

As Basic as Bread

One of the after-effects of mixing flour, water and yeast which was later baked had resulted in the preparation of the one of the most staple foods had across different countries of the globe. With the dawn of civilization and agriculture leavened (or in certain areas the unleavened form) bread has become a part of the local cuisine and culture, such that existence without it for a couple of days would be quite unthinkable.

Etymology tracing the roots, the word “bread” originally meant “broken piece” or “morsel”, as evidenced by the appearance of West Frisian brea, Dutch brood, German Brot, Swedish bröd, Norwegian and Danish brød; all a part of the Gemanic languages which had transferred few of it’s roots to the Middle and Modern English. Although “hlaf” was the old English name for bread (hlaifs in Gothic: modern English loaf).

One of the earliest prepared foods, archaeological evidence shows starch residue on rocks. Possibly roots of certain plants (possibly cattails and ferns)were pounded on these rocks for their starch extract, then placed over a fire and cooked, which would be the earliest primitive form of flatbread. With the rise of agriculture ( Neolithic Age) and cultivation of certain plants, cereal may have then been the mainstay of bread making.

“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” James Beard

Leavening of the bread in the early years may have happened through multiple sources. One possibility would be that leaving the uncooked dough exposed to air for sometime would result in the airborne yeast spores falling in. Another fact is that many yeast spores are naturally found on the surface of cereal grains, so if any dough is left to rest, it may leaven naturally. Records of Pliny the Elder report that the Gauls and Iberians used barm (the foam skimmed from beer) to produce “a lighter kind of bread than other peoples” such as barm cake. Other parts of the ancient world used their knowledge of wine to find a source of yeast, either by making a paste composed of grape juice and flour that was allowed to begin fermenting or wheat bran steeped in wine. Another common source of leavening was to retain a piece of dough from the previous day to use as a form of sourdough starter.

Modern methods of bread making was initiated by the Chorleywood bread process (1961) which uses the intense mechanical working of dough to dramatically reduce the fermentation period and the time taken to produce a loaf. Mostle used on a factory scale, this resulted in bread being easily available on a large scale and in the commercial market.

Alternative to the regular wheat bread, bread may be made from other wheat species like spelt, emmer, einkorn and kamut or made from non-wheat cereals like rye, barley, corn, oats, sorghum, millet and rice have been used to make bread. Although only rye bread can be made exclusive of wheat, others may need a little of wheat flour for binding process. Although for the purpose of preparing gluten-free breads, ground flours from various alternatives like almonds, rice, sorghum, corn, legumes (like besan), tubers (cassava) maybe used. As these flours mayn’t hold their shape as they rise and hence may be dense without the aeration, additives such as corn starch, eggs, xanthan gum and the like are used to compensate for the lack of gluten.

From sliced bread to sourdough loaves, there are a variety of breads being made pertaining to each locality and region like the yeast based anadama bread, hoppers, Scottish bannock, cottage loaf, Austrian kifli, Spanish mollete or the Swiss Zopf to mention a few. There is nothing more satisfying than making own bread once in a while. From the regular bread to short bread, the choice of recipes and methods are plenty. Giving the sweet tooth a rest, it would be an interesting experience to give bread baking a try, may be adding a more individual, experimental and creative touch to it.

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight… [Breadmaking is] one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from some ancient ceremony. It leaves you filled with one of the world’s sweetest smells… there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of meditation in a music-throbbing chapel. that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread.” M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

Posted in Daily, Food, Photography Art, Stories Around the World

Little like the “Donut”

Deeply fried, made from flour dough, typically ring shaped with a hole or similar round shaped (without the hole), or filled with various toppings and flavourings, this sugar delight goes by the more popular name of “donut”. While donut may be considered more of an 18th century preparation with their origin more likely from the Dutch oliekoek, fried dough based confectionery has been there for quite some time in the various indigenous cuisines across the globe. The tradition of frying foods in edible oils have been evidenced to the era of Ancient Greece and Rome. As other cultures began to adapt their own methods over time, different variations came into the local cuisines, though the roots may trace back to common ground.

Made usually from flour (can include finely milled or regular variety) with a mix of water, eggs, milk, sugar, oil, shortening or leavening agents as well as flavourings added to the dough which is then shaped(or not) and deep fried. While doughnuts may be based on their shapes as rings, filled, balls, flattened spheres or twists; other variants include the cake type (like old fashioned doughnut) and the yeast-risen doughnuts. Exploring the indigenous variants to the modern “doughnuts” based on the indigenous cuisines, there a huge number of delicacies that fill the list with legends of their own.

“New mysteries. New day. Fresh doughnuts.” David Lynch

What happens when a baker accidentally drops a ball of dough into a pan of hot oil ? The resulting culinary experimentation would result in a light, spongy ring of dough fried in oil, when had in the Maghrebi cuisine, is known as “Sfenj” (translated as sponge). Also known as Khfaf (Algeria) or bambalouni (Tunisia), Sfenj is usually had for breakfast or tea, had plain or sprinkled with sugar or dipped to drizzled in honey or sweet syrup. Originating in the Al-Andalus era (8th to 10th century), the accidental drop of dough, had evolved to be an important part of the Andalusi cuisine, spreading over to the Banumarin dynasty (Morocco, 1270-1465) and then onto the France (13th century) where it had inspired beignets. Making homemade Sfenj, all depends on how long one wants the dough to rise and temperature of the oil while frying. Of recent, there have been recent variations to the regular sfenj, that is “Sfenj matifiyya” (sfenj pounded flat and fried a second time) and the “Sfenj matifiyya bil-baydh” (sfenj matifiyya with an egg added before refrying).

Moving across to the French Beignet (almost similar to the English fritter), these are basically a type of deep-fried pastry. Although beignets were more popular in the medieval French cuisine, the earliest similar forms may have been there in Ancient Rome. With the basic ingredients of flour, granulated sugar, evaporated milk, shortening agents and confectioner’s sugar; beignets can be made in various varieties depending on the pastry type used. While the French-style beignet is essentially deep fried choux pastry, beignets made with yeast pastry ( boules de Berlin) or those made with chestnut flour (Corsica, beignets de farine de châtaigne) with the latter being known as fritelli, are just few of the variants made. While making at home, many variations, add-ons or substitutes to the usual dough mix may be made, starting with the flour or adding of mashed bananas (plantains) or berries just to start off a few changes. Beignets may be served either as sweet desserts or breakfast food, the choice is own.

There are countless styles and variations to the various forms of “deep-fried dough” across the globe. While exploring and experimenting with the various cuisines, absorbing those recipes into the home kitchen and indigenous cuisine makes the fun part of cooking. Food is essential to life. Imbibing a litte bit of the food culture into the usual mix would not only excite the cooking bug or the palatal buds, but also start off a pleasant home and family tradition. After all, experiences are the what fills the treasure chests of life.

“Frosting was his favorite. He liked to eat doughnuts at every meal. Because it was healthier to eat six small meals a day than three large ones, he restricted himself: jellied for breakfast, glazed for brunch, cream-filled for lunch, frosting for linner, chocolate for dinner, and powdered sugar for 2 a.m. supermarket stakeout. Because linner coincided with the daily crime peak, he always ate his favorite variety to ease him. Frosting was his only choice now, and upsetting his routine was a quiet thrill.” Benson Bruno ( author of A Story That Talks about Talking Is Like Chatter to Chattering Teeth, and Every Set of Dentures Can Attest to the Fact That No..)

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Of Chocolate

“Can I offer you a slice of this amazing caramelized white chocolate apricot brioche made by my favorite granddaughter?” “You may indeed.”
When you slice the rich, buttery bread topped with crunchy bits of pearl sugar, you get a swirl of white chocolate, which now also has hints of caramel flavor from having been roasted, and chunks of apricot. ” ? Stacey Ballis ( Author of Wedding Girl)

One of the drawbacks of reading books revolving or having a bit of the food factor, is the sudden trigger for that particular dish or meal. Using this as a justifiable excuse to dig into my toddler’s stash of white chocolate, would satisfy the sudden craving for the chocolate, creamy and white.

Interestingly white chocolate isn’t exactly chocolate. Made from cocoa butter, milk solids, sugar, lecithin and flavorings (most commonly, vanilla); it doesn’t include chocolate liquor. The latter beside s giving the bitter flavour and dark colour to chocolate, by the FDA Guidelines state that chocolate liquor has to be present in a product to be known as “chocolate”. Though today as per the US Guidelines (2004), white chocolate (by weight) should have at least 20% cocoa butter, 14% total milk solids, 3.5% milk fat with maximum of 55% sugar or other sweeteners. On a plus point, white choclate has very minimum caffeine as compared to the regular chocolate.

 

On tracing to the exact origin of chocolate being white, no definite person or country can be given credit. While the Swiss company Nestlé takes almost sole claim to being the initial source of marketable white chocolate (1930s, Milkybar) in Europe; rumours exist of a New Hampshire man producing white chocolate shortly after World War I. Other records state of Kuno Baedeker, who had developed white chocolate (1945) and is widely considered the first creator of the same in North America. Though as records mostly show that Nestlé was the heart of creation and development of the modern white chocolate.

All said and done, one can melt it, chip it in, drink it or just have it like that. Like the regular choclate, white choclate has become a very prominent add on in the cookie dough, cake mix, quick desserts, melted with hot choclate and a regular combination with ice cream. Which is why, a bar of white chocolate has it’s own role of cheering up the depressing bits of life, no matter how old one grows.

“I like caramel flavors; some people prefer a lighter taste, like rose, at least to start with. The chocolate-flavored ones are lovely, of course…” I am rambling; it is like choosing a favorite child, practically impossible. “What’s in this one then?” She points at my newest creation, a pale, creamy white with soft flecks of yellow, like glints of gold in white marble.
“Reve d’un Ange. It means ‘dream of an angel.'” She tilts her head, interested, and I shrug. “Hopelessly romantic name, I know. Couldn’t help myself.” “What’s in it?” she asked, lowering her voice.
“It’s my white chocolate macaron. Ganache, that’s a kind of chocolate cream, sandwiched in the middle. I’ve added a little lemon rind and cinnamon.”
-Hannah Tunnicliffe ( author of The Color of Tea)

 

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Of “Petit Pots”

“Heat the milk and cream. Make it a bit bubbly. Add the flavours, mix it into the whisked eggs and egg yolks. Strain the mixture and pour into cups. Bake these cups in a water bath at low heat. Depending on taste, one can flavour this dessert with pieces of broken or melted choclate, rum, add a base of crunchy texture or garnish with almond slivers, sliced berries, cinnamon, colorful sugar or sprinkles; all leading to a piece of art as well as of delectable taste.”

The above simple dessert similar to a lightly set baked custard, known as “Pot de crème” or “petit pots” was believed to have originated from France during the 17th century. While the name means “pot of custard” or “pot of cream”,referring to the porcelain cups which were used to make and serve the dessert; the latter concept may have evolved from the from English Syllabub.

Usually looser than other custards, crème brulee, flans or crème caramel; it requires minimal preparatory time and can be made with the ingredients at hand. Such that it can be prepared without milk or had frozen. Hardly surprising that, this delight has got its’ own special place and day (August 27th) in the foodimentarian’s heart. For all the dessert connoisseurs, it would be time to experiment the taste buds with the varieties of preparations. While for the experimental chefs, let the steps to make an artful and palatable creation begin.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Of Sponge Cake, Styles and Flavours

One of the very basic cakes, known to most kitchens and tea times; made of the very basic ingredients of flour, sugar, butter and eggs, mostly made as the non-yeasted cakes but leavened with beaten eggs are the “sponge cakes”.

With the roots tracing back to Spain of the early Renaissance period; the forerunner of sponge cake was initially believed to be have made more as a biscuit, flat and thin. The brainchild recipe was believed to be by the Italian pastry chef Giovan Battista Cabona (called Giobatta), at the court of Spain with his lord, the Genoese marquis Domenico Pallavicini, approximately around the middle of the 16th century. In fact the earliest original and attested sponge cake recipe was seen in English poet, Gervase Markham’s “The English Huswife, Containing the Inward and Outward Virtues Which Ought to Be in a Complete Woman (1615).” The thin crisp cookie like cake became it’s present form when bakers started using beaten eggs as the rising agent (mid 18th century). With baking powder (Victorian period, Alfred Bird, 1843), sponge cakes became higher and lighter.

The British sponge cake is produced using the batter method, with the layered Victorian sponge cake and the Madeira cake being popular in the high tea menu; these cakes made using the batter method are known as butter or pound cakes in US. The typical Victoria sponge filling consists of strawberry jam and whipped double cream sandwiched between two sponge cakes with the top of the cake layered with a dusting of icing sugar.

While sponge cakes are made using the batter method; cakes made using the trapped are known as “foam cakes”. Cakes made based on the technique of using trapped air to life the cake, partially or wholly, existed in most European patisseries. Like the Anglo-Jewish “plava”, pan di Spagna (Italy), génoise (Italian), pão-de-ló (Portugese) to mention a basic few.

The derivatives of the basic sponge cake idea include the American chiffon cake, the Mawa cake (Indianized British sponge cake from Mumbai) and the Latin American tres leches cake. The latter is a sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream. From the simple sponge cake, before it has cooled, the creation of rolled cakes as in the Swiss rolls, trifles, Madeleine and ladyfingers are possible. Little wonder then, this basic cake has been a part of the kitchens over the centuries. With the National Sponge Cake (August 23rd) being recognized by foodimentarians today; experimenting and indulging in the basic cakes of the childhood days would make way for a change fr the usual.

“Kai slices the cake, his version of the banana cake I have always talked about. He has made a vanilla sponge cake, soaked in vanilla simple syrup, and layered with sliced fresh bananas and custard. There is a central layer of dark chocolate ganache with bits of crispy pecans and toffee, and the whole thing is covered in chocolate buttercream, with extravagant curls of chocolate and chocolate-dipped banana slices piled in the middle. I accept a thin slice, savoring the flavors, both of the cake, and of simple joy.” Stacey Ballis (Good Enough to Eat)

Posted in Daily, Food

Sweet, Flavoured and Iced

“After scalding the teapot, put into it one quart of boiling water and two teaspoonfuls green tea. If wanted for supper, do this at breakfast. At dinner time, strain, without stirring, through a tea strainer into a pitcher. Let it stand till tea time and pour into decanters, leaving the sediment in the bottom of the pitcher. Fill the goblets with ice, put two teaspoonfuls granulated sugar in each, and pour the tea over the ice and sugar. A squeeze of lemon will make this delicious and healthful, as it will correct the astringent tendency.” (Marion’s recipe for “Ice Tea” (1879))
– The oldest sweet tea recipe (ice tea) in print from the community cookbook “Housekeeping in Old Virginia”, by Marion Cabell Tyree (1879 publication)

Although summer heat has given way to the rain, tea especially the iced and sweetened versions have almost a year round presence. Despite the rains, each week has it’s fair share of afternoon heat, best felt when one spends the muggy hours on foot. While iced or cool water has their benefits, there is the something about iced tea and sweet tea that prompts every cool drink enthusiast to indulge in them once a while.

With trade and colonial conquests, tea was introduced to Europe and then on to the Americas, where it had gained widespread popularity especially in the southern parts. By the 1900s, black tea became more accepted than green tea, especially when taken with ice. With scorching heat, the sweetened and iced version had more support than simply the iced version. Yet it was the World Fair (1904) that had made iced tea a popular summertime drink. This popularity had catapulted with the Prohibition ( 1920-1933) wherein beer, wine and alcohol was declared illegal then.

The technical difference between “sweet” and “iced tea” lies in the sugar. The former is taken as “sweetened and iced” whereas the latter i.e. iced tea, may be served unsweetened or black. Either way, learning to make sweet tea is a must for any afternoon social especially when the age of soft drinks may have been passed. With National Sweet Tea Day tomorrow (August 21st), it’s time to go recipe hunting and come with a flavoured and tacky sweet tea recipe.