Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

A Slice of Crust, Filling and History

“Things that really matter are the things that gold can’t buy, so let’s have another cup o’ coffee and let’s have another piece o’ pie.” Irving Berlin

In the initial years of domestication, life in the kitchen revolved around one step meals. From casseroles to pasta and pie, homemade food was simple, basic and hassle free. One of the first recipes to attempt with the oven were the pie recipes, something that our grandmother used to to do on a weekend basis. Today with dessert pies being the classic in any restaurant, it makes for a welcome change from the usual simple desserts for the weekend lunch.

Interestingly the concept of pie making can be traced to as early as the Neolithic era of Egyptians. Pie essentially meant anything edible encased in a tough pastry shell mainly served as a baking dish, storage container or serving vessel, initially too hard to actually eat. As historical evidence points out, these early forms of pies are known as galettes, which essentially are rustic free-form pies. These pie-like treats were made with oat, wheat, rye or barley; then filled with honey and the dish was baked over hot coals. As Egyptian hieroglyphics and drawings show that the bakers to the pharaohs incorporated nuts, honey, and fruits in bread dough, a primitive form of pastry.

As the Greeks carried over the tradition of galettes; they had modified the pies during their period by making a flour-water paste wrapped around the meat, which served to cook the latter and seal their juices. When the Romans had conquered Greece, they had used various types of meat including oysters, mussels, lampreys, fish in every course of meal, sometimes even dessert . As written in the records of De Agricultura by the Roman Statesman Marcus Porcius Cato (234-149 B.C.), the recipe most popular during his era was known as the “Placenta” or “libum”. They were made more like a cheesecake, baked on or sometimes inside a pastry base, these were the initial pie/cake.

Through the gateways of the Roman cuisine, the trend of pie making made it’s inroads into the European cuisine, adapting itself to the local customs and imbibing itself with the traditional cuisine. The initial pies were known as “coffins” or “coffyns” (the word actually meant a basket or box). There were savory meat pies with the crusts or pastry being tall, straight-sided with sealed-on floors and lids. The open-crust pastry (no tops or lids) were known as “traps.” Holding an assortment of meat and sauce components, these pies were baked more like a modern casserole with the crust being the pan, its pastry tough and inedible. The crust was often made several inches thick to withstand many hours of baking. The initial pie prototypes were more savoury than sweet and were a mix of top-cased than open ones (known as tarts today). The sweet pies were more of the “tart” variety.

“Tak gode Applys and gode Spycis and Figys and reysons and Perys and wan they are wel brayed colourd wyth Safroun wel and do yt in a cofyn and do yt forth to bake wel.” (Recipe for apple tart, 1379) Source:The Forme of Cury, A Roll Of Ancient English Cookery, Compiled, about A.D. 1390, by the Master-Cooks of King Richard II.

As to the etymology of the word “pie”, the source may be traced to the magpie, a bird that was known for collecting odds and ends especially the shiny ones and storing them in it’s nest (visualize the similarity). Considering that the Medieval pies also contained many different animal meats including chickens, crows, pigeons and rabbits, the possibility rests on that similarity for the modern word of “pie”.

The modern pies are baked dish, with a pastry dough casing that completely contains a filling of various sweet or savoury ingredients and meant to be eaten. From sweet pies with fillings of fruit, nuts, brown sugar or sweetened vegetables like rhubarb or the savoury pies like the steak pie, Jamaican patty with plain meat, eggs and cheese (quiche) or a mix of the vegetables and meat (pot pie(, pies today are meant to be edible as a whole. And the crusty cover can be made from the typical shortcrust pastry meant for pies or even substituted by powdered biscuits, mashed potatoes, bread crumbs to give a soft or strong edible base or cover.

Modern pies carry a whole lot of tradition and history behind each dish typical of a particular cuisine. Knowing that and adding on to those ingredients, giving the pie making a special flavour and zing tot he final dish. After one of the best places to experiment, experience and recreate the flavours of history is the kitchen.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Third Wave and On…

“Coffee is a hug in a mug.” Anonymous

On a long postponed visit to the extended family line, we had to put in a three hour journey to-and-back. While waiting in the traffic and not being in the principal driver’s seat was an added incentive for window shopping. Naturally the sign of “discount” had your truly squinting to make out the deals. But it was the special offer of “The Flying Squirrel” (exclusively bought online) and Seven Beans that had snared my attention. After seconds of hedging, my husband had the car in park while I made a quick dash for it. With our luck in alignment, the buy didn’t take much time and we were on back homeward bound.

“It’s amazing how the world begins to change through the eyes of a cup of coffee.” Donna A. Favors

Interestingly “The Flying Squirrel” or “Seven Beans” is but two of the many brands caught in the “wave of coffee”. Entering into the artisanal food category, the third wave coffee movement is a retrospective entry of coffee wherein both coffee lovers and manufacturers share the joy and appreciation of high quality coffee. Like fine varieties of wine and cheese, the third wave of coffee explores the connoisseur-ship, stimulation of the senses and exploration of taste in a simple but buoyant cup of coffee. The unique characteristics of that simple coffee bean are highlighted, ranging from the diverse methods of growing, cultivation, processing, roasting as well as the practices and salient variables among the coffee bean cultivars and beverage preparation.

“The first wave of American coffee culture was probably the 19th-century surge that put Folgers on every table, and the second was the proliferation, starting in the 1960s at Peet’s and moving smartly through the Starbucks grande decaf latte, of espresso drinks and regionally labeled coffee. We are now in the third wave of coffee connoisseurship, where beans are sourced from farms instead of countries, roasting is about bringing out rather than incinerating the unique characteristics of each bean, and the flavor is clean and hard and pure.” Jonathan Gold, LA Weekly. (March 2008, Pulitzer Prize winning food critic on the third wave of coffee)

Technically the terminology of “third wave coffee” was most widely attributed to Trish Rothgeb, a coffee professional in an article for the Roasters Guild newsletter titled “Norway and Coffee,” (2003) with the first mainstream media mention in an National Public Radio piece about barista competitions. Although there is a lesser known reference in an obscure trade publication called “Tea & Coffee Trade Journal Asia” (1999) by specialty coffee pioneer Timothy Castle obliquely referring to the same. While the first and second waves dealt in the ready availability and highlight the countries of origin with (or not) of their signature dark roast profile (respectively), the third wave coffee is often associated with the concept of ‘specialty coffee’ with reference to the specialty grades of green (raw and unroasted) coffee beans (distinct from commercial grade coffee) or specialty coffee beverages of high quality and craft. Though coined earlier (1974), “specialty coffee” was meant to refer to high-quality beans scoring 80 points or more on a 100-point scale.

“It doesn’t matter where you’re from – or how you feel… There’s always peace in a strong cup of coffee.” Gabriel Bá

There is something in a cup of coffee that is dearly enjoyed across all age groups, from different countries, professions and cultures. To add to one’s own special highlight to that cup of coffee, along with the coffee wave, the addition of a tinge of vanilla, whisky, chocolate, cinnamon, cardamom or hot chocolate, can do wonders. Not to forget the ice-cream for the kids. Little wonder then, one would chose to miss an opportunity to ride “that coffee wave”.

Posted in Daily, Food, Stories Around the World

Simple, Smoked and Short

One of the downsides of having to work far from home, is to not only the commute but also getting the meals right. With lunch packed and breakfast a tight run, getting the right share of calories is a constant battle. While fruit and salad can be quite easy and handy; for unexpected long hours it keeps the hunger pangs at bay only for a short while. While vending machines, cafes and delis are there plenty around, they cause significant hurt to the wallet as well as physique. Which is why short quick healthy meals get highlighted and tagged, to be learnt as soon as feasible.

One of the first endeavors was to modify the healthy combination of carbs and proteins right, by the basic sandwiches. The first to be subjected was “pastrami on rye”, making it to own adaptation and specifications. Technically of Romanian origin, pastrami is a meat product usually made from beef brisket, lamb or turkey. The raw meat is brined, partially dried, seasoned with herbs and spices, then smoked and steamed. Etymologically, the name “pastrami” can be traced to Roamnian pastrama; the latter being traced to the Bulgarian pastrija or Turkish pastirma or “bastirma” meaning pressed meat.

While earlier meat shops used to process them, these days they are readily available in the commercial chain grocers or supermarkets, commonly made as per the norms of the locality, either from lamb, turkey or meat. One of the advantages of the “pressed meat” is that it can be cut into thin wafer slices, medium cuts or slices or a really large filled sandwich of choice. The best part is there is no frying or oil involved.

As the sandwich chains and delis got onto the trend, serving meat sandwiches especially pastrami sandwiches became a novelty. For all sandwich lovers, it is a must. While for school or office lunches, this makes a good change from the routine and a break form the elaborate morning kitchen preparations. That one hour of lunch break can be made into a light, wholesome and healthy meal.

“You sit down at Katz’s and you eat the big bowl of pickles and you’re eating the pastrami sandwich, and halfway through you say to yourself, I should really wrap this up and save it for tomorrow. But the sandwich is calling you: Remember the taste you just had.” Mario Batali

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Gooey, Sweet and Special

One of the advantages of the cellular networks is that news travels fast. Work promotions, kindergarten winnings, new projects or ideas accepted and launches as well as new family additions are few of the positive news that spreads fast. Some surprises call for impromptu celebrations which essentially involves something sweet. While instant baked goods mayn’t be available at hand round the clock, there is something about marzipan that can do wonders for the most basic of desserts.

Primarily consisting of sugar or honey and almond meal, marzipan is a confection with a wide array of uses. While it is often made into chocolate covered (or plain) sweet treats or as imitations of fruits, vegetables, cars, toys and the like; it can also be used as glazing for icing cake, biscuits or shaped into small figurines atop cakes especially meant for personalizing celebrations. It can also be added as a baking ingredient to the traditional recipes ( like the stollen, banket, king cake).

Tracing the origins, marzipan was believed to have originated through two different, though converging routes. One was via the Northeast Mediterranean line, introduced to Eastern Europe through the Turks, while the other possible origin was the Iberian Peninsula line, predominantly from the Al-Andalus area of Spain. With it’s widespread popularity, marzipan has numerous variations. While in Germany sugar and almonds are ground into a paste, syrup can be used to sweeten the mixture (France) while Middle East marzipan may include a dash of rosewater. Almonds may be replaced by apricot or peach kernels, to make a similar product known as the “persipan”. Other alternatives include substitution with soy paste or almond essence.

Homemade marzipan comes ready with very basic ingredients of almond paste (or freshly made almond meal), egg whites and sugar. Besides getting creative with marzipan made edible animals, figurines or delectable icing and decorative ideas; chunks of marzipan when added to cookie dough or cake batter make for an interesting twist to the taste. Wit marzipan, something simple can be made into simply amazing with basic ingredients, whole lot of creativity and plenty of ideas.

“Madre Carmela’s favorite nuts were almonds. Not only did she like the way they tasted the best among all nuts, but she loved the flavor they imparted to Sicilian desserts from cakes to biscotti, and her favorite of all, Frutta di Martorana- the perfect fruit-shaped confections made from pasta reale, or marzipan, which required plenty of almonds. Who would have thought that the base for an elegant, regal dessert like marzipan came from such a simple ingredient as the almond?”
― Rosanna Chiofalo, Rosalia’s Bittersweet Pastry Shop

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

Biscuits, Crumbs and Milk

With plenty of biscuits left over from the holiday baking safely enclosed in their tins, it was their crumbs which had to be called to an order. After all the holiday cakes and ice-cream, evening desserts had to be something light, easy on the sugar and simple to make. What would be an easier solution for all the crumbs than the good old “biscuit pudding”.

Interestingly biscuit pudding is something that has evolved over time. With the British cuisine evolving the pudding from dumplings, the former had to be either in the meals or dessert category. More steamed than bakes, they were the savoury ones like steak and kidney pudding, haggis, pease pudding and the dessert ones (steamed in a basin and for afters) like the Christmas pudding, sticky toffee pudding and so on. Though essentially centuries on, pudding is more of a dessert than savoury. Dessert puddings like bread and butter pudding, biscuit pudding or simply with fruit.

“The proof of the pudding is in the eating.” Miguel de Cervantes, Spanish author. (1547-1616) ‘Don Quixote de la Mancha’

One of the very basic biscuit pudding recipes that resulted in the first stained smock of preschooler was the Chocolate biscuit pudding. Though claimed to be a Sri-Lankan dessert pudding introduced by the British during the colonial era; it may have been in the kitchens of the west long before then. To make it requires layers of a prepared chocolate pudding or icing mixture alternated in a serving dish with layers of biscuits (plain ones preferred) dipped in warm milk. Served cold (not baking or steaming) with chopped nuts as garnish, cutting through would see five to seven layers of biscuit and chocolate. An easy dish to keep bored children busy on cold days.

The old-fashioned biscuit pudding, usually handed over in the set of family recipes, the basic ingredients would be vanilla, eggs, milk and plenty of leftover biscuits. This moist pudding is usually had cold, garnished with ground cinnamon, raisins, candied fruit and with maple syrup. With fond memories, it puts the cracked biscuits and their crumbs to good use.

Posted in Food, Stories Around the World

From Spaghetti-o-iei’s

The noon drive from work during the last week day entitles picking up the kids from school. Once they are in the car, the ride then on is interspersed with narratives ranging from the classes, to “mom did you know that she/he” to playground falls, teacher praises, peer comments and the like. Among the narratives was their home science classes wherein the primary classes as well as kindergarten were taught about basic stuff like hand-washing, making cookies, tending the garden and sorting the recyclables. With detailed descriptions of how spaghetti was made in class, the three of us had trooped into the ice-cream parlour for the weekend scoop. Imagine to my surprise when the “today’s special” held the title “spaghettieis”. On clarification, the waitress told me that we serve ice cream only and spaghettieies was just noodle ice-cream.

Spaghettieis (German pronunciation: [ʃpaˈɡɛtiˌaɪs]) is a German ice cream dish made to look like a plate of spaghetti.

Created by Dario Fontanella, “spaghettieis” was a dish of vanilla ice cream extruded through a modified Spätzle press or potato ricer, giving it the appearance of spaghetti( late 1960s, Mannheim, Germany). The entire ice-cream spaghetti is then placed over whipped cream and topped with strawberry sauce (to simulate tomato sauce) with coconut flakes, grated almonds, or white chocolate shavings added over it (similar to the Parmesan cheese). Fontanella had served this innovative creation to tearful children and had received the Bloomaulorden, a medal bestowed by the city of Mannheim (2014).

As this innovation makes it’s rounds in popular gelaterias, ice cream parlours as well as special events; various variations have been experimented with. Popular among these simulations include the different flavours of the “ice-cream shaped like spaghetti” with dark chocolate ice cream, nuts, sprinkles, icing sugar and the like. To be a “spaghettiei” dessert, the simulation has to be one of the varied spaghetti versions like Spaghetti Carbonara, Spaghetti Bolognese, Spaghetti cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) or the Spaghetti alle vongole appearance. With simple “mini-variations” a simple bowl of vanilla ice-cream can be turned into something decadent and delightfully elaborate but exquisite and simple.

Posted in Family and Society, Life, Random Thoughts, Stories Around the World

Au revoir to Hello

Bidding adieu to the last few hours of the year brings back fond memories as well as interesting traditions followed to welcome the new year. While the last day may be a holiday, for some it is the last few hours of another work day. Yet battling the traffic and rushing to make it to home base for the last few hours is done so as to usher in the next year with family and friends. While some are on a rampage while setting up the traditional new year watch night, attend the night service, host the family gathering, get the first few traditional customs of the new year ready and the like, the option lies in joining the fray or sitting on the sidelines and enjoying the celebrations.

As we usher in the next year, customs both family and country wise may be followed. From the Siberian tradition of diving into a frozen lake while holding a tree trunk to be placed underneath the ice or the Singaporean tradition of releasing wishing spheres into the river, painting front doors red (Chinese), sprinkling salt on the doorstep (Turkey) are just few of the countless traditional new year customs. Each home and family can make their won set of traditions. Be it enjoying a glass of champagne or ice-cream for the children after the night watch service to having fireside games, each of us can make our own tradition to usher in the new year.

“In our perfect ways. In the ways we are beautiful. In the ways we are human. We are here. Happy New Year’s. Let’s make it ours.” Beyoncé

Through all the celebrations, one mustn’t fail to remember that each day is a new year, a chance to do something new, for the better and an opportunity for new chances and attempts. Each new day is an opportunity to make our closest dreams come true. Life always holds a myriad of new beginnings, it is taking them on and changing the circumstances for making oneself better that makes all the difference.